Home Composting Techniques

The Benefits of Home Composting

Manure is decayed natural material, which you can add to your nursery rather than manufactured composts. Microscopic organisms in the dirt can separate the biodegradable waste and change it into an item that enhances your dirt and will assist you with developing lively plants. Manure is loaded with supplements and great microscopic organisms that can help oppose bugs and sicknesses. It likewise ingests and holds water, relaxes mud soil, animates sound root advancement, and gives food to microorganisms, which keeps the dirt solid.

Additionally home treating the soil is free since you utilize just kitchen squander, yard clippings, and other vegetation you would ordinarily discard. You can even set aside cash from landfill charges and from not accepting additional composts.

Carbon Footprint

Other than home manure being so gainful for your veggies, spices, or blossoms, it will likewise assist you with decreasing your carbon impression. Studies show that food scraps and yard squander compensate for 33% of what is discarded. At the point when natural waste is shipped off landfill, its deterioration discharges methane, a destructive ozone harming substance. This happens in light of the fact that air can’t get to natural waste in a landfill. On account of home fertilizing the soil air circulation is a significant advance and along these lines barely any methane is created. Home treating the soil additionally prompts diminished petroleum derivative utilization from squander transportation.

An ongoing report shows that patios can catch an amazing measure of carbon and fertilizer enables your dirt to store it. So follow our means, start home treating the soil, and help your nursery become a carbon-catching heaven.

Is it accurate to say that you are hoping to become familiar with planting your own veggie fix? Provided that this is true, at that point make certain to peruse our Grow Your Own guide. It’s pressed with viable tips on the best way to get ready, plant, and upkeep your food garden.

How Compost at Home | The essentials

There are four primary fixings you need in your home manure heap: the earthy colors – materials, for example, branches, twigs, dead leaves, destroyed paper, and cardboard-which give carbon to our fertilizer. Second are the greens – materials, for example, vegetable and natural product scraps, espresso beans, and grass clippings – which give nitrogen. It is significant that you have an equivalent measure of these materials which ought to be placed in substitute layers. Next, you need water to give dampness, which assists break with bringing down the natural material. You need the perfect measure of water for deterioration, the manure should feel soggy, yet not dousing wet. To wrap things up your home manure needs air. You should turn and blend your heap at any rate once seven days utilizing a pitchfork or a fertilizer aerator.

Patio Composting

The main activity is to discover a spot for your patio manure heap or receptacle. It ought to have great wind current, be almost a water source, have halfway shade in the mid year so the heap doesn’t get excessively blistering, and in a perfect world great sun in the colder time of year to keep the heap warm.

At that point you add the earthy colors and greens and saturate dry materials as they are added. Cleave or shred materials prior to tossing them on the manure as it will help accelerate the cycle. Attempt to consistently have a layer of browns on top of food waste to evade flies. You can alternatively cover the highest point of the fertilizer with a canvas to keep it damp.

Presently you simply need persistence as the fertilizing the soil cycle may take some time. Completed manure should look, feel and smell like dull, rich, thick soil and you shouldn’ have the option to perceive any of the materials you put in. You will normally get a large portion of the volume of the materials you put in. You should add this nutritious completed item to your nursery around 2 a month prior to planting. Different approaches to utilize it are raking it into your vegetable beds and blossom gardens, spreading it on existing scene beds as you would do with mulch, or sprinkle it as a characteristic compost.

How Compost at Home | Indoors

On the off chance that you don’t have a patio or space yet at the same time need to home fertilizer you can do it inside. You need a unique sort of container, which you can discover at any equipment or cultivating gracefully store, some dirt and some destroyed paper and you can begin. The cycle is equivalent to in open air fertilizing the soil, blending earthy colored and greens, you simply need to screen it and tend it all the more near maintain a strategic distance from terrible stench or nuisances.

In case you’re anxious to take manageable living up an indent, have you considered transforming your food scraps into cooking gas? Head over to our Home Biodigester manual for get familiar with changing kitchen squander into gas.


On the off chance that you want to take it up an indent you can likewise nightcrawler earthworms to assist you with changing your loss into rich soil conditioner. For this, you will require red worms or red wigglers (Eisenia foetida and Lumbricus rubellus), which you can purchase online from worm ranches or from neighborhood trap shops and treating the soil gatherings, a compartment, soil, and some destroyed paper. You can have them in your kitchen or outside, simply ensure it’s a zone with temperatures somewhere in the range of 4°C and 25°C. The treating the soil cycle with worms is quicker and brings about an item with a higher level of hummus and supplements. Remember however, that vermicomposting requires a smidgen more consideration and consideration from your part. You should be mindful so as to consistently have the correct conditions, to be mindful so as not to give an excess of food or time after time, and so forth On the off chance that you like a test here are more strides to make your own little worm treating the soil ranch.

The Dos and Don’ts of Home Composting

Here is a rundown of things you should add and ought to abstain from adding to your manure:


Organic products and Vegetables, egg shells, espresso beans, tea sacks, nutshells, destroyed paper, paper or card, grass clippings and leaves, house plants, roughage and straw, sawdust, wood chips, cotton, fleece clothes, hair, hide, compost and chimney remains.


Dairy items and eggs, fats, oil, grease, or oils, meat or fish bones and scraps, pet squanders (for example canine or feline dung), coal debris, weed or weed seeds, garden decorations or house plants treated with synthetic pesticides.

15-Steps of How to Build a Livestock Fence

Livestock fencing is highly dependent on the type of livestock you intend to keep inside the fencing. There are many types of fences that livestock are kept behind. This article provides an overview of a typical livestock fencing. Please feel free to start an article on any special type of livestock fencing.

step 1

Determine what kind of fence or livestock fences you want to build. What you decide to build depends on the livestock you own, how much money you are willing to spend on purchasing materials, and what size it will be. There is a huge difference between paddock and pasture fences.

For example, with cattle, paddock fences need to be more rigid and stable than pasture fences. Pasture fencing for cattle requires simple barbed wire or high-stretch fences, while for pigs, goats and sheep, pasture fencing requires up to 3 to 5 feet in height. Horse pasture fencing can also be barbed wire or high-stretch fence, but people love a little more fancy fences and opt for wooden fences or aesthetically pleasing iron fencing.

There are numerous types of fencing available. Some examples:

  • Electrical fencing can be permanent (as well as high tensile) or temporary electrical. Electric fencing can be the fastest and cheapest to build. This will apply to any animal that is trained and is also useful as a psychological barrier to wildlife. A wire that is electrified is said to be energized or “hot”. The temporary electrical wire is ideal for rotary or steerable – intensive pasture because it can be moved all the time.
    This article will not tell you how to install an electric fence, because usually all instructions are for installing temporary electric fences, not a standard permanent livestock fence.
  • Barbed wire fencing is installed from four to six or more wire fences, smooth wire in the form of high strength or low stretch fencing (this type of fencing is often electrified), or a combination of smooth and barbed wire. One level of barbed wire, as a rule, runs from the top of the fence, and sometimes at different levels, or vice versa, standard wire is located at the top of the fence, and barbed wire is at the bottom. Both types of fencing are best for livestock.
  • Piedge wire, while more expensive than barbed or smooth wire, is best suited for fencing pastures or keeping goats, sheep, and pigs, and is a common grazing fence for bison and elk breeding. The wire can also be used on farms or ranches that breed cows – calves. Page wire is also called “truss fence” or “woven” and comes in braided wire or 12 to 14 wires welded together to form squares of varying lengths apart from each other, four to six inches apart. Such a fence can be 3 to 8 feet high.
  • Wood planks are best for those who want a more aesthetically pleasing farmhouse and don’t want to worry about the potential problems posed by wire fences. It can be expensive, but it is safe and effective for horses. Wooden board fencing is also suitable for keeping cattle.
  • Iron fencing is also suitable for farms that have horses or want aesthetically pleasing yards. It can also be used for other livestock like cattle and sheep, especially in high traffic areas such as holding paddocks.
  • Iron fences are arranged in groups that need to be stabilized with wooden posts or stand-alone groups that need the tractor to place them in the right place. Depending on their size, they are great for keeping large animals such as deer, cattle (especially bulls), horses (including stallions), bison and even elk.

step 2

Determine the location of your fence. You will need a ruler, protractor, pencil, paper and eraser to draw lines and a shape for where your pastures will be, how many pastures you want to make, where your gates will be, mark all the lanes and how you are going to organize and build the fence as you are going to smoothly transition from one pasture to another. This is so that you reduce or even eliminate the risk of damage to livestock.

  • You can take printouts of your land from Google Earth to position where you want fences, gates, alleys, pastures, and even corrals. It will be much easier than trying to scale everything on a large piece of paper from memory!

step 3

Decide how you are going to build your fences according to the type of livestock you have. Plan how to build your fences at the same time, keeping in mind those special, individual animals that are potential diggers, fence pests, fence jumpers or climbers, or those who might just walk through it as if it weren’t there.

It is very difficult to predict which animals you are going to keep and how they will check the fences.

  • Goats are notorious for testing fences, being prone to climb, jump, crawl under, climb over, or even walk over fences. Build your fence so that it is high enough that they are unlikely to jump over, and so low that they do not crawl under it. The space between the wires should be less than the size of their heads, because if a goat can stick its head in, then the rest of its body will surely pass too! Electric Fences for Goats might be a good solution for you
  • Sheep are less known for climbing over fences, but they are as small as goats; thus, similar fencing requirements are required for them.
  • Pigs are better known for digging tunnels under fences than climbing over them. You will need to set up a fence deep enough underground that the pigs will not dig through to escape.
  • Many horse owners argue that barbed wire fencing is the worst thing for horses, that it is better to spend the extra money on parallel bars, or board fencing, than wire fencing. Horses are more likely to jump over a fence and figure out a path through a gate lock than to crawl under a fence. However, stallions tend to check the fence; thus, if you have a breeding herd of horses, make sure the paddock where you keep them, the fence must be strong, sturdy and high enough so that the stallion will not jump over it.
  • Cattle fencing is a little easier to choose because it has more choices a breeder makes to contain their cattle depending on where he wants to keep them. Barbed wire fencing is the most common type of fencing for grazing cattle. Electric fencing is best for those fence lines that too often need to be crossed or for those designed for round-robin cattle. Stronger fencing such as freestanding iron fences, wooden planks, or iron bars are best for paddocks and resting paddocks, and are highly recommended for keeping bulls and cows.

step 4

Plan out what kind of corner brackets you need or want for your pasture fences. This is your closing point for the fence that takes the brunt of both fence lines, the angle bracket is the first and most important thing you should build for your livestock fence. You could look around your area for these corner braces. You will understand that all the angles have been maintained over the years to varying degrees. Considering the cost at which you bought the fence, you need to build your corner assemblies to the highest standard in your area.

  • Corner brackets range from H to N brackets and wire extending from the top of one side to the bottom of the other. In other words, when two H-brackets are positioned towards each other, which are typically mounted on a pasture corner fence, three vertical posts, two horizontal braces, and a stretch are used to construct such an angle bracket. This type of construction is standard and will hold up any fence for many years.

step 5

Call the help center and gas service to invite one of their workers to map out any gas lines on your property. Make sure you know where the gas lines go before you start digging, otherwise you could damage it and spend a lot of money on repairs or hurt yourself. Your local gasman or service company will mark the areas where these lines are located before you start building your fence.

step 6

Get an overview of your land. A legal survey may be required to determine the exact perimeter of the land you own, or where your land ends and a neighbor’s begins. You may need to do this before starting construction as it may take time.

  • Note that this is extremely important to define, especially if your perimeter has no existing boundaries, such as a road or a row of trees. This is less important if you are building interior fences in the main fence on the site because quite often you can determine how those interior fences will be positioned without spending money to hire professional inspectors.
  • Distributing indoor grassland and paddock fences requires a good knowledge of markings, determining whether the fence is straight or not, surveying measures, tape measures and chalk or marking paint – the latter two items will be needed to mark out smaller pens and handling equipment in addition to those mentioned above.

step 7

Buy fences. In addition to fence posts and wires or fence rails, you will also need other tools and equipment to stretch the wire, secure it, and cut it. Buy everything you need before you start digging holes.

step 8

Dig holes. The earthmoving machine will dig the holes that are required especially for starting the construction of the angle brackets. Place the posts as deep as necessary depending on the type of soil. Corner brackets should be dug so that the base is submerged at least 30 inches to 2 feet deep.

step 9

Install the corner posts. Corner posts are usually larger in diameter and even longer than full length posts. Some install them in concrete, but others argue that this will make them more susceptible to rotting than if they were installed in gravel, sand or soil. Make sure they are straight and level (never bend the corner posts!) Connect all three recessed posts before installing them. Fill the space around the three posts with soil that has been dug, gravel, sand, or concrete.

  • Attach the top post from three pieces. You will need a tape measure and a chainsaw to cut the points where they need to connect. Quite often, you will use a hammer to attach everything properly.
  • Place the wire on the posts. The wire is crossed from the top down, and by winding it with the stick as tightly as possible without breaking it further, increasing the strength of the fence.
  • Continue with the middle post and each of the other corner posts.

Note that with a wooden or iron fence, corner posts are not required. Even electrical temporary fences do not require permanent corner posts.

step 10

Place the first wire fence line. This will serve as a guide for where to place the rest of the lines. The first wire should start eight to ten centimeters from the ground.

  • This step is generally not necessary for wood or iron fences, as well as temporary electrical fences.

step 11

Place the pillars on the line. The posts are made of wood or steel. This distance varies considerably from fence to fence and can be as close as 6 feet to 50 feet. It is best to do this closer, if finances permit, and is necessary if you are building holding or working pens with a large number of animals. Inspect all lines and pillars – make no exceptions because damaged wood will have a shorter life time than those treated under pressure.

These same posts will taper at the end, making them easier to drive into the ground.

  • Ideally, the poles along the line should be submerged 14 to 18 inches deep regardless of terrain. More posts will be needed for more uneven terrain, such as hills or ravines.

step 12

Lift up the rest of the wires. You will need to decide how many outskirts you want specifically for wire fences. The standard is four wires along the fence line (especially for barbed wire fences), but some manufacturers prefer to install five or six wire fences especially along roads.

  • Make sure each wire is evenly spaced over the other. This will make the fence strong and sturdy. If the wires are not evenly spaced, this allows the animals to stick their head over the fence or even walk right through or under it without any problem. You must prevent this.
  • Installation in a hedge is standard – three planks, one on top of the other, evenly spaced along the fence line.

step 13

Use a hammer for the main parts. Each part of the line should be tied with wires stretched to the posts. This is important because livestock will find a hole in the fence that is not connected to the main fence posts or wires. The staple can be driven directly into the post, or at a slight upward angle to bring it closer to the wire to be removed by the animals.

  • Check the perimeter along the fence line to see if you missed any major details or anything else that might be wrong.

step 14

Repeat the steps above for the rest of the fences you need to build.

step 15

Take the animals to pasture. Once everything is done and the fence is ready, you can finally take your animals out to pasture. Monitor them for one hour as they explore the perimeter of their new pasture to see if they can find their way out. If there are no problems, then you are great and you can go!

How to Fertilize Strawberries in Spring to Double the Yield

Strawberries are one of the most popular berry crops; in each garden there are several beds with fruitful varieties, giving ruddy fragrant berries from spring to autumn. In order to collect a rich harvest of delicious berries, it is worth carefully looking after the plantings of strawberries, carefully performing all agrotechnical measures. It is especially important to carry out timely feeding of berry bushes, otherwise the harvest of ruby ​​berries may not impress with its abundance.

How to Fertilize Strawberries

Spring: Time to Fertilize Strawberries

On strawberry beds, gardeners grow two types of strawberries:

  1. Disposable varieties – fruiting occurs in late spring or early summer, bushes massively yield fragrant berries in a short period of time.
  2. Repairing varieties – ripening of berries continues from spring to autumn in pronounced waves.

In order to select NPK ratio, application time and high-quality chemical composition you should take into account the plant breed. Incorrectly selected formulations for feeding berry bushes can affect a decrease in yield and an increase in the ripening period of fragrant strawberries.

For all types of strawberries, the following fertilization scheme is optimal:

  • First year – Plants are not fertilized; the starting fertilizer added to the soil during planting provides nutrition to the bushes.
  • Second year – Mineral and organic compounds.
  • The third year – Top dressing is carried out only with mineral compositions.
  • Fourth year – Mineral and organic compounds.

Usually after 4 years of planting strawberries are updated, so the scheme is repeated when growing new berry bushes.

Fertilize strawberries in early spring

Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to carry out the first feeding of strawberry bushes, it is very important to carry out these works before the appearance of new leaves. In different regions, depending on the climate, this period falls on different months. In the south, the first feeding of strawberries can be carried out at the end of March; in the middle lane, the timing of nutrient introduction for plants is shifted to April.

It is very convenient to combine the first feeding of strawberries with trimming old leaves and whiskers, removing the mulch layer and debris from the berry beds. The compositions are introduced into the soil immediately after putting things in order in the berry. The purpose of early spring feeding is to provide nutrients to strawberry bushes, which are preparing for an intensive build-up of green mass. At this time, plants need additional fertilizing with an increased proportion of nitrogen, which stimulates the regrowth of new leaves.

Fertilizers for early spring feeding of strawberries can have a different composition; feeding with nitrate or urea is especially popular.

Feeding strawberries with saltpeter-based formulations in spring is necessary for the rapid formation of new leaves, as well as for increasing the size of the berries and saturating the color. With a lack of nitrogen, the plants form not only a frail bush, but also yield small, tasteless berries.

For the first feeding of berries, you need to prepare an aqueous solution of ammonium nitrate, dissolving 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of dry matter. The bushes are watered at the root, the consumption rate of the nutrient solution is from 0.5 to 1 liter for each plant.

Important! You cannot prepare more saturated solutions and water the plants with a large amount of fertilizer, an overdose will not lead to anything good, the berries will become sour, having lost a significant proportion of sugar in their composition.

Carbamide (urea) is ideal for proper fertilization of strawberries on soils of any composition. In case of an overdose of the nutrient solution, the taste of the berries will deteriorate, they will become tasteless and sour.

Foliar dressing of strawberries is carried out three times per season:

  • At the stage of emergence of young leaves.
  • During the flowering period.
  • At the moment of ovary formation.

Early spring feeding of strawberries allows you to stimulate the growth of berry bushes, strengthen them and increase yields.



The Right Tractor For a Small Farm

There is no doubt that the farm tractor is the main tool on the farm.

Therefore, his choice deserves great attention.

Of course, personal preferences regarding brand, sometimes appearance, price, maintenance cost and of course the needs of the farm play an important role in choosing this technique. Tractor manufacturers adapt them to these requirements by making their products as much as possible for the farm. But what exactly should a tractor have for small farms?

Universal, auxiliary, sometimes primary

It goes without saying that an agricultural tractor must be a versatile machine. If we are talking about models for small farms, then in the framework of large farms they are used as auxiliary equipment. But on small farms, such machines solve all problems without exception, which means that the requirements for them are very high.

Size is one of the main criteria. Moving inside sheds, driving through gates and entrances – all these factors place restrictions on the size of the tractor. Indeed, it is in such conditions that the machinery of a small farm works. Fortunately, today manufacturers offer a huge selection of models, among which you can choose the equipment that will best suit the given working conditions.

John Deere Farm Tractors

Power matters too

Of course, power is also an important factor. The most popular solution among Ukrainian owners of small farms is tractor models with a capacity of 65-85 hp. According to experts, this power makes this type of equipment versatile, allowing you to perform almost the entire range of agricultural work.

If you have a small gardening farm (no more than 1 hectare) and the range of work performed is not at all large, then it may be quite enough to buy a tractor with an engine power of 15 to 25 hp, especially since it will cost much cheaper than powerful analogues … For example, here you can buy a new motorcycle tractor in Ukraine for about 50 thousand hryvnia.

And don’t forget that a modern engine must be economical and environmentally friendly. Its maintenance requirements should be kept small and the maintenance itself should be as simple as possible.

The farm tractor must be agile

Almost all tractors, without exception, have good maneuverability, but there are models that have this figure above average. Of course, this largely depends on the design of the steering mechanism and front-wheel drive, but the type of drive used has an equally important effect. It has long been known that four-wheel drive tractors are the most manoeuvrable and can perform extremely difficult and precise maneuvers both in tight spaces and in open areas, and when working with a loader or forks.

It is while working with a loader (an indispensable addition to a tractor on a farm) that we can see all the advantages of this system. It provides both steering precision and the precision of the loader itself.

Hydraulics are also needed

An agricultural tractor needs to work well with a loader and that requires a good hydraulic system. The accuracy of the oil system, its performance and the operation of the controls must be at the highest level.

Tips To Choose The Best Garden Tractor

An ordinary riding lawnmower is fine for cutting a great deal of grass. Be that as it may, on the off chance that you have sections of land of grass and need to utilize your machine to carry out other substantial responsibility errands – working, snowblowing, scratching the carport, and so on – a nursery tractor is the best approach.

What Is a Garden Tractor?

Tiller connection that utilizations PTO

The wording utilized for different riding lawnmowers and light-obligation tractors can be befuddling, as various individuals use them in various manners. To be exact about it, the best garden tractor alludes to a machine with significant grass cutting capacities – three sharp edges rather than two and a cutter deck of at any rate 45 inches – and at any rate a 20 torque motor, the base expected to work substantial connections. Nursery tractors regularly accompany a PTO (control take-off) hitch which immeasurably builds the kinds of connections that can be utilized with the machine.

Size and Power

The principal interesting point when choosing a nursery tractor is the intensity of the motor and the width of the cutting deck. All else being equivalent, the expense of the machine will be relative to these two numbers.

Measure of Intended Mowing

In case you’re cutting multiple sections of land, a 54 inch deck (the greatest deck size for garden tractors) is so as to make the procedure less tedious. Under two sections of land, and the 45-inch size is most likely adequate. Be that as it may, if speed of cutting is significant, consistently go with a more extensive deck.

Drive Considerations

Tow heavier burdens with higher drive.

The greater the tractor’s sharp edge, the more power it needs to turn it. Nursery tractors run from 20 to 30 strength. The higher end will make cutting quicker and will give you the vibe of an expert’s machine, instead of a toy, when utilizing it for pulling overwhelming burdens, burrowing, working, and so on. On the off chance that you for the most part need it since you have sections of land of grass to cut – and you’re the sort of individual that doesn’t give the grass a chance to get excessively tall – the lower drive models will presumably suit you.

Wheel Size

To a lesser degree, size becomes possibly the most important factor with the wheels of the tractor. Sizes from 20 to 23 inches are normal. The greater the tire, the more steady it will be on harsh or soak territory; it will likewise be simpler to explore in sloppy conditions.

Tractor Dimensions

At long last, you additionally need to ensure the tractor is measured to get where it needs to go. Measure the wifth of entryway openings, shed entryways and some other tight spaces it should go through and ensure the general size of the machine is steady with these limitations.


Antiquated nursery tractors had manual transmissions that necessary you to stop the machine so as to move into nonpartisan. Nowadays, by far most of nursery tractors are controlled by hydrostatic transmissions, a kind of programmed transmission that changes easily between gears for you as you quicken or decelerate.

There are additionally ‘zero turn’ machines that have a different transmission for every one of the back wheels, enabling it to change direction quickly. These are significant in the event that you have to explore the machine in tight places, however they are basically intended for cutting, not utilizing rock solid connections.

Foot Pedals Versus Hand Lever Controls

The most significant choice about the transmission really has to do with how it’s controlled. A few models have a throttle mounted alongside the guiding wheel, which means you need to take a hand off the wheel to modify your speed. The other alternative is to utilize a foot pedal, much the same as the quickening agent on a vehicle.

Hand Levers

Hand switches work as a type of journey control – in case you’re cutting three level sections of land it can get tiring to have your foot on the pedal constantly. The drawback of hand switches is you need to take one hand off the wheel to modify your speed and they can get moved accidentally if your’re exploring through brush or low tree appendages, the two of which are wellbeing issues. At the end of the day, hand switches are fine for delicate territory and exercises that don’t expect you to always change speed, such as cutting and working.

Foot Pedals

Foot pedals are better on unpleasant territory and for things like burrowing or scooping soil and moving in tight places. Since garden tractors are designed as much for utilitarian tasks, instead of simply manicuring the grass, they frequently accompany foot pedals – particularly the better quality models. When all is said in done, foot pedals are viewed as better, yet cost more.


There are a surprising number of connections accessible for garden tractors. The very good quality models with a PTO hitch grow the choices impressively, however garden tractors without a PTO still can do a ton of stunts. Here is a testing of each.

  • Non-PTO Attachments
  • Trucks and trailers, incorporating those with a dumping system
  • Tanks and sprayers, for conveying and disseminating water, composts, pesticides, herbicides, and so forth.
  • Yard vacuums, mulching, and packing connections and related embellishments

PTO Attachments

  • Snow blower connection
  • Tillers, harrows, and different executes to develop the dirt
  • Snow blowers and other snow expulsion actualizes
  • Front end loaders, burrowing pails, scratching cutting edges, wood screws, and other hardware to move/uncover soil and different materials

Making the Match

Nursery tractors start at around $2000 and can undoubtedly reach near $5000 or surpass it, particularly in case you’re acquiring various connections. Consider the attributes of your property and the sorts of undertakings you need to achieve cautiously before making the speculation.

Container Gardening Basics

Ready to garden, but don’t know where to put it? Consider container gardening.

You don’t need a particularly large space to garden. While having a large garden is a dream for many people, you might be surprised by what you could grow by saving space with a container garden.

Where can you put a container garden?

  • Perfect for an apartment balcony. Especially if it faces south!
  • A front porch or back patio is a fine spot for a container garden.
  • A drive way can be decorated with a container garden.
  • Even a window ledge or bay window could be home to a container garden.
  • Anywhere your plants will get lots of sun light!

Container gardening basics-

A container garden is simply a collection of pots and planters for your vegetables or flowers. The containers can be fancy or be pure function. For instance: a five gallon bucket makes a fine tomato planter.

Why should you start a container garden?

  • Learn how to grow your own food.
  • Learn a component of the homesteading lifestyle, even if you rent.
  • A great way to get started gardening.
  • A wonderful way to beautify your home.

Who is a container garden good for?

  • Someone with a small, or no yard.
  • Someone with limited mobility.
  • Someone looking to grow just a few plants.
  • Someone trying gardening for the first time.
  • Someone who wants to liven up a porch, patio, or driveway.

When is the best time to start a container garden?

  • Generally after the last frost date for you area you’re good to go. Potted plants are a little more susceptible to cold. If indoors, start one now!

Things to keep in mind when gardening with a container garden:

  • Plastic pots may have a shorter life span. Depending on the type of plastic, some can become brittle if exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time.
  • Container gardens typically need to be watered frequently. Make sure to check them once a day. (If indoors, watering will probably be needed less than this.)
  • Terra cotta looks great but can also wick moisture away from your plants, raising the watering requirement.
  • Wood works great but will most likely rot over time. Cedar is rot resistant, but is also more expensive.
  • If growing food, don’t use treated lumber. The chemicals can leach out of the lumber.

Just bear in mind that your plants are a little more susceptible to the weather if they are in planters and pots. You may need to bring them in if it is going to frost. You may also need to water daily if the weather is extremely hot… You will also have to feed the plants on a regular schedule with a good quality organic feed, or good compost.

Also, if extremely hot (say middle of summer) make sure to water at least daily. You can stick your finger into the soil, and if moist they are good. Also, if you are in an extremely hot and sunny area you may need to provide some shade so the plants are not cooked.

Garlic planting instructions

Love fresh garlic? Use these garlic planting instructions to insure you have a good harvest!

  • Plant from September 15 to November 30. The best time is after the first light frost (Usually October)
  • Plant in loose, well-drained soil with lots of organic matter
  • Plant the cloves root end down, pointed end up, and 6 – 8” apart. Cover with 2” of soil and mulch on top of the soil. Leave the outer skin on the clove.
  • Cloves will begin to sprout in 4 – 8 weeks. This is normal and the garlic will overwinter just fine.
  • In the spring, water 1” per week. Keep weeds under control.
  • Harvest garlic after leaves begin to die back, usually in June or July.
  • Dig the garlic carefully and brush the dirt off. Do not wash or refrigerate the garlic.
  • Keep your nicest bulbs for replanting.